I want a perfume of the air inside Hamdi. It smells like fire, black pepper, charred herbs, almonds, oak. I want to wash my hair in it. I want a little vial of it to keep in my pocket and inhale on the train. Open since late 2022 on a semi-industrial stretch of Leary Way,…

As a born-and-raised Seattleite from a lapsed Lutheran family, I’d never heard of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, a traditional Italian holiday meal. That is, until I got hooked on Hulu’s The Bear, wherein a pivotal episode shows the fractious Berzatto family disintegrating over the dinner. Traditionally, “you would fast the entire day, and…