Tulips bloom in bursts of radiant color while seaplanes buzz overhead and water taxis scurry to and fro. Forage-to-fork feasts abound, with local craft beer and distillery options numbering in the dozens, and world-class wines shipped in from the eastern reaches of the region. Hikers and cyclists put on their gear and go, ready to tackle breathtaking scenery with the watchful peaks of the Olympic Mountains in the distance. Bookstores thrive, indigenous culture rebounds, and crystal blue water extends farther than the eye can see.

It’s as if the entire Pacific Northwest were distilled into a single drop — this tiny, walkable, eminently charming town of 95,000 fortunate inhabitants: Victoria, British Columbia.

Located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island, Victoria is accessible by seaplane or by car ferry, from Port Angeles or the B.C. mainland. But thanks to the Victoria Clipper, leaving the car at home to reach the picturesque provincial capital is not only convenient but enjoyable. The high-speed catamaran transports passengers across the Salish Sea, providing breathtaking views of the surrounding islands and wildlife-rich waters.

In less than three hours, travelers are transported from Pier 69 in downtown Seattle to Belleville Terminal in Victoria’s picturesque Inner Harbour. Comfort class is well worth the upgrade. Complimentary sparkling wine is served when you board, and a full-service food and beverage menu can be ordered from your seat. Try to book the first row for an unobstructed view that makes you feel like a figurehead at the bow. As the ferry approaches Victoria, passengers are treated to views of the Inner Harbour, with its impressive architecture and bustling waterfront.

Accommodations: Luxury and Charm

Victoria offers endless places to stay, but two standouts rise above. The Fairmont Empress is an iconic landmark that has been welcoming guests since 1908. This grand chateau-style hotel —designed by controversial wunderkind Francis Rattenbury — sits majestically along the Inner Harbour, exuding timeless elegance. Guests who choose the Fairmont Gold experience gain access to a private lounge with daily breakfast, evening canapés, and a seriously well-stocked honor bar, along with personalized concierge services.

This summer, the property marks the return of the popular Sunset Sips program in the Lobby Lounge. As the sun sets over the Inner Harbour, the Lounge becomes a prohibition-style haven, with clever cocktails based on the iconic high tea menu and served in teapots. Sip on a tea-infused Canadian whisky cocktail, “The Capone” — his gang allegedly smuggled here during Prohibition — while sampling bites and taking in a magnificent sunset.

For those seeking the boutique experience, The Magnolia Hotel & Spa is the perfect fit. Situated in the heart of downtown Victoria, this intimate hotel offers spacious rooms and an award-winning spa. Its central location makes it easy to walk the city’s attractions, and the staff’s dedication to guest satisfaction ensures a comfortable stay.

Have dinner at The Magnolia’s award-winning restaurant The Courtney Room, the first restaurant on the island to win platinum for its wine program at the Vancouver Wine Festival. The cocktail menu, with local artists beautifully illustrating each page, must be seen and tasted to be believed. Order a “pushing daisies” for a mindblowing mixology of Greek yogurt aquavit and dill liqueur.

Walking Tours and Cultural Insights

Victoria is best explored on foot or by bike, with guided tours to suit every interest. The tour led by elders from the Songhees Nation provides a unique perspective on the area’s Indigenous heritage. Participants will learn about the land’s history, cultural traditions, and significant sites, deepening their understanding of the local culture and conflicts in the past. If visitors are lucky enough to encounter guide and historian Mark Albany, minds will be blown, questions will be raised, and viewpoints might shift.

Gastronauts will enjoy the “Off the Eaten Track” food tour, a guided journey on foot through Victoria’s thriving culinary scene. The tour visits a variety of local eateries, including the delightful French bistro L’ Apéro. The enthusiasm for charcuterie and fromage is only exceeded by the perfect wine pairings that ensue. The “Eat, Drink, Pedal” tour mines similar foodie territory by e-bike, as does Pedego Bike Tours, which also visits the coast and Craigdarroch Castle. Booking multiple tours is a great way to get your bearings, as guests learn something new every time. If you get the smartly dressed comedian Mike as your guide, with “high school history teacher energy,” you’re in for a treat.

Wine & dine. Enjoy classically-inspired Italian cooking at Zambri’s.

Photo by Kristine Wilkinson

Car-free Victoria visitors who still want to experience Butchart Gardens can book it, and be transported directly, through the friendly staff onboard the Victoria Clipper. Art aficionados should also take the brief stroll to the Royal BC Museum. This renowned museum offers a captivating exploration of British Columbia’s history and natural environment, including “Woolly,” a life-size replica of the legendary woolly mammoth. Make like a druid and head to the latest exhibition, “Stonehenge,” continuing through Jan. 5. Replicas, artifacts, and interactive displays bring the ancient monument’s mysteries to life.

After the walks and bikes, treat yourself to a soothing soak at HAVN, the day spa and sauna situated, appropriately, on a ship in the Inner Harbour.

Dining Delights

Victoria’s dining scene is a culinary adventure, with restaurants ranging from humble fish shack to Michelin-worthy fine dining.

After years of anticipation, Marilena Café & Raw Bar from Toptable Restaurant Group (Araxi in Whistler) has arrived, with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, in a jazzy, design-centric setting. The raw bar features the greatest hits of Pacific Northwest seafood towers: sushi, sashimi, oysters, and crab. The main menu keeps the seafood succulence coming, with steelhead trout, sablefish, branzino, and striped bass. Marilena took the No. 3 spot on the Top 10 list of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants 2023.

10 Acres Bistro, adjacent to both the Empress and The Magnolia, is known for its sustainable dining philosophy, with ingredients sourced from its own 10-acre farm. The menu showcases the best of West Coast cuisine, with a commitment to sustainability. Then, step over to gastropub 10 Acres Commons and order a shaft (like a Canadian espresso martini, invented in Victoria), and the locals will treat you as one of their own.

Other culinary notables include Red Fish Blue Fish on the waterfront — for perfect fish-and-chips — and Zambri’s, for classically-inspired Italian cooking. Zambri’s is the only restaurant in Victoria to have been certified as an “Authentic Italian Restaurant” by the Italian Chamber of Commerce.

Have a cocktail and watch the sunset on the Gold Terrace at the Fairmont Empress.

Photo courtesy of Fairmont Empress

A Chilllaxing Return

The Clipper ride back to Seattle allows visitors to soak in epic views of the Space Needle, enjoy a final glass of wine, and reflect on their visit. Whether for the history, culture, or cuisine, Victoria leaves a lasting impression and compels travelers to return to this concentrated slice of Pacific Northwest magic. The dream of a return begins the moment the Clipper shoves off and the lovely architecture of Victoria fades in the distance.