Less than four hours after signing off on Seattle magazine’s November/December issue, I was soaking in a large copper bathtub at the Bernardus Lodge & Spa, a lemongrass-scented bath bomb fizzing away the stress of press week. In a poetic wrapping-up of the issue, I’d sent the email approval of the final page proofs just as the light rail pulled into the airport. After breezing through security (thank you, CLEAR and TSA PreCheck), I grabbed a quick dinner at Skillet and was boarding my flight soon after. The journey from Sea-Tac to the Monterey Regional Airport took a little less than two hours, and the ride from the airport to the resort was around 20 minutes (I also landed at 7:15 p.m., so traffic was a breeze).

Bernardus Lodge & Spa is located in California’s Carmel Valley, near Carmel-By-The-Sea, Monterey, and Big Sur. The property was opened in 1999 by Bernardus “Ben” Pon, a Dutch Olympic skeet shooter, racecar driver (in 1962 he competed in the Dutch Grand Prix with a works Porsche 787, resulting in a crash and an avowal to never race again), and vintner who opened his namesake winery in 1989. When Pon first discovered the area, it was more rural, but the same rolling green hills and expansive blue skies remain. Today, the region remains a quiet destination, dotted with horse ranches, vineyards, and luxury resorts. 

Arriving at Bernardus, I was greeted with a glass of wine and ushered through the property to my room—one of the Vineyard Villa Suites, which features the aforementioned copper soaking tub, an outdoor shower, fireplaces in both the bedroom and living room, and French doors that open onto a spacious terrace with views of the Santa Lucia mountain range. Dark ceiling beams combined with ornate chandeliers and a king-sized, four-poster bed are vineyard-chic; a living room stocked with magazines invites lounging in front of the fire with a glass of wine—an activity I indulged in throughout my stay. 

In the Village Suites, large copper tubs and private terraces off the bathroom (with outdoor showers) provide a spa-like experience.

Photo courtesy of Bernardus Lodge & Spa

Décor is elevated rustic, as seen in one of the Vineyard Villa Suites, where floral curtains, a canopy bed, and an ornate chandelier add to the charm.

Photo courtesy of Bernardus Lodge & Spa

Since I arrived after dark, I wasn’t able to see the property until the next day. Beautiful, warm, and clear against a storybook blue sky, the morning dawned with ideal weather for exploring both the property and the surrounding area. Bernardus has 73 rooms (a mix of standards, suites, and villas) scattered across a manicured property with pool, spa, bocce and tennis courts, adults-only hot tub, vineyard, rose garden, and plenty of nooks to discover along the way (there was a hammock positioned dreamily between two trees near my room). Bright citrus trees and waving grasses line the gently weaving paths, while building-climbing ivy and roses add an elevated touch. 

After grabbing some snacks from the complimentary, in-room selection, I downed a quick cup of coffee in the lobby (there is a drink station offering various drinks throughout the day), then inquired about borrowing a car for the afternoon. Bernardus is one of about a dozen resorts in the country with a Mercedes-Benz Drive Program partnership, meaning they have a fleet of cars—models include a Maybach, G-Wagen, AMG E 53 Cabriolet, EQS 580—that guests can take out for up to four hours on a first-come, first-serve basis. All you have to do is replace the gas you use. It’s a great amenity for the property, which is tucked away off the beaten path (part of its draw) without anything in walking distance. There are a handful of options for exploring: both Carmel-by-the-Sea and Monterey are less than 30 minutes away, Big Sur is about an hour, and, if you’re on a tighter timeline, Carmel Valley Village, where Bernardus Winery is located, is just a five-minute jaunt. 

For just $12, experience the rugged coast on the scenic 17-mile drive, which winds through the bougie Pebble Beach community and includes highlights like the Lone Cypress, Bird Rock, Pebble Beach Golf Links, and the ghost trees at Pescadero Point.

Photo by Rachel Gallaher

I opted to head for Carmel-by-the-Sea, taking a detour to cruise the iconic 17-Mile Drive,  a picturesque circuit of the California coastline that takes you past historic sites (Huckleberry Point is rumored to be a favorite haunt of literary greats including Robert Louis Stevenson and John Steinbeck), famous golf courses (Pebble Beach, Spyglass Hill, the Links at Spanish Bay), and so many opportunities to get out and see the crashing, roiling Pacific Ocean, that even though I had experienced 17-Mile Drive before, I was eager to get out at each stop to take in the salty-aired views. A highlight is the Ghost Trees at Pescadero Point, where wind-and-sun-bleached Cypress trees stand above a popular Big Wave Surf spot; their twisted, spooky forms remind me of the brush strokes of Edvard Munch’s painting, The Scream.

After 17-Mile-Drive, along which helpful red road markings keep you on track as your drive, I ventured into Carmel-by-the-Sea, where dozens of boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants offer hours of exploration just blocks away from the beach. For lunch, I indulged in a lobster roll at Stationæry, soaking in the afternoon warmth on its sun-soaked patio. After eating, I wandered around town, stopping at Pilgrim’s Way Books & Community Garden, with its tranquil secret green space, hidden away in the middle of town. Here, you can pick up everything from an escapist beach read and the latest contemporary fiction to books of all genres by local authors. 

Fire features on the cozy terrace at Lucia Restaurant keep the evening’s chill at bay.

Photo courtesy of Bernardus Lodge & Spa

An adults-only hot top offers quiet, and one of the property’s best mountain views.

Photo courtesy of Bernardus Lodge & Spa

Back at Bernardus, I took advantage of my patio, reading for a bit before heading to the adults-only hot tub, which I had to myself. Sipping on a glass of vino (each room comes with a bottle, courtesy of the brand’s winery), I watched the sun slip away over the nearby hills, cloaking the day in a gorgeous navy blue that signaled it was almost time for dinner. The restaurant, Lucia, offers Mediterranean-inspired regional cuisine featuring fresh, grown-on-property herbs and produce. I leaned into seafood, starting with a Dungeness crab cake (pickled vegetable slaw, jalapeños, smoked-pimentón gribiche), and choosing the market fish, halibut, which was cooked excellently (read: not too dry—often its downfall) and served with fingerling potatoes. I’m not usually a “dessert person,” but I went out on a limb and ordered the still-warm, partially-baked chocolate chip cookies with vanilla ice cream, and let me tell you that was an absolute indulgence. For oenophiles, Lucia’s cellar holds more than 5,000 bottles of wine across 280 labels, with a private dining area that can be booked for special occasions.

The resort’s adjacent vineyards capture the story of Bernardus Winery, one of the first tasting rooms opened in the area.

Photo courtesy of Bernardus Lodge & Spa

The next day I was tempted to take one of the cars out again, but opted instead for on-resort relaxation, starting with poolside yoga (offered every Friday and Saturday morning), followed by a 50-minute Bernardus Essential facial. My flight wasn’t until 8 p.m., but the resort allowed me to use the amenities (including the spa lounge, sauna, steam room, warming pool, and showers), so I spent the afternoon reading by the hotel pool, eating lunch on my lounger, and rounding out the day with several circuits through the sauna and steam room. With no activities or sightseeing on the books I was able to fully and deeply relax into the sunny afternoon without feeling rushed or planning the next move out in my head. Yes, the grounds, the gourmet food, and the amenities were all fantastic, but those six hours of indulgent, unscheduled tranquility were the biggest—and most needed—luxury of all.