Resilience by the Sea: Return to Lahaina
As West Maui rebuilds, beauty and connection remain
By Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas August 11, 2025
West Maui has always held a magnetic allure — the scent of plumeria backlit by torches under a pale moon, or the way the sea breeze fills the lungs with total relaxation. But a visit now, in the wake of the 2023 wildfires, carries added meaning. Not out of obligation, but appreciation. The ocean views still take the breath away, the spirit remains strong, and the rapidly rebuilding community welcomes visitors with genuine aloha. From Seattle, it’s a direct flight and a deeply restorative change of pace. And being part of West Maui’s next chapter might be one of the most meaningful ways to experience it.
A thoughtful place to spend a therapeutic few days is the Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows. A mainstay of the Kāʻanapali Beach scene since 1962, the property recently underwent a careful refresh. The result is a blend of mid-century style and island ease — bungalows with comfy lanais, native landscaping, and just enough polish to feel like a luxury escape without tipping into pretense. The beach is mere steps away. It doesn’t take long to adjust.
Easy breezy
Once you settle into island mode, it’s easy to find your rhythm. For brunch, lunch or pupus, travelers congregate at Lahaina Noon, the resort’s signature restaurant. Named for the rare solar event when the midday sun sits directly overhead and shadows disappear, it’s a clever nod to place: ancient, bright, and distinctly Hawaiian. From there, a stroll around the grounds feels natural. Even if it’s your first visit, something about the atmosphere clicks into place almost instantly. There is a tower as well, with panoramic views, but the bungalow layout feels more peaceful, more intimate.
Don’t miss The Branches, a shaded outdoor lounge tucked under a century-old, 64-foot ficus tree strung with lanterns. In the evening, it draws a mellow crowd of visitors and locals, with live music and cocktails. The hotel is committed to building community under the ancient boughs, with live music every night from 6pm to 9pm, and a roster that includes talented locals as well as Grammy-winner Kalani Pe’a.
Serenity by the shore
Designed to be more than just a spa, the resort’s newest addition is a sanctuary of renewal. The Spa at Royal Lahaina is a thoughtful space rooted in the healing power of the ocean, offering guests a place to connect with the island’s spirit. The oceanfront serenity lanai, for example, is a nod to “Blue Mind Therapy,” celebrating the restorative sensory experience of being near the sea. The Pacific stretches out for miles to the horizon, an unblinking expanse of blue, holding its color while the sky above cycles through every shade of day. Treatments, from traditional lomi lomi massages to rejuvenating facials, are crafted to align with the warmth of aloha and the renewing energy of Maui.
Island time
When you’re ready for some excitement, Teralani Sailing Adventures runs private snorkel charters that depart near the resort. Captain Rod Nichols takes visiting seafarers to the artificial, accidental reef off Mala Wharf for some of the best snorkeling on the island — or anywhere. The reef formed from the remnants of a sunken pier and now teems with marine life. With a long swim shore, access by boat is much preferred, and the bright, colorful sea turtles and fish always provide thrills. The crew seems genuinely enthused to lead guests on the water, and if they’re in the mood, you may end up cruising along the shores of a nearby island, hearing tales of the old Club Lanai.
In the evening, immerse yourself in local culture — as well as kalua pork and fire dancing — at the Myths of Maui Luau. The event, held on-site, is known as the longest-running luau on the island. The courtyard hosts a local makers market, giving the locals opportunities to show off their wares and sell directly to visitors. Even the hotel gift shop shows intentionality, with the first outpost of Mana Up on island, ensuring that gifts and goods are Maui-sourced and produced.
Regrowth and renewal
In response to the fires in Lahaina and Kula, the hotel has partnered with Treecovery Hawaii, a nonprofit focused on wildfire recovery and reforestation. The resort now hosts one of the group’s grow hubs — nurseries where native trees are nurtured until they’re ready to be replanted across the region. The partnership provides land, resources, and visibility, but more importantly, it offers something restorative — for the community and for guests.
According to Treecovery co-founder Duane Sparkman, who also serves as the resort’s chief engineer, the project speaks not only to sustainability but to belonging. Many of the resort’s employees were personally impacted by the fires. The hotel itself became a place of refuge and sanctuary for locals who needed basic shelter and food. Seeing trees grow, knowing they’ll return to the land, sends a quiet but powerful message about hope, rooted in action.
Guests can plant trees — the volunteers at Treecovery make it very accessible — or simply observe it in motion, a subtle yet moving reminder of how landscapes rejuvenate. The rest of the day might involve a cabana by the pool, a poke bowl, maybe little else but a long, serene prelude to sunset.
If you do feel like venturing out, Honu Oceanside — a beloved Lahaina institution now back in business — is a short drive away. Feast on freshly caught monchong with open-air seating and an oceanfront view that somehow still manages to surprise.
Why now
The conversation often circles back to recovery, but not in a way that overwhelms. The resort team is candid: yes, visitors help the economy. But what matters just as much is presence, kindness, and curiosity — qualities that will endure far longer than a receipt. It’s still natural to wonder whether it’s too soon. But on the ground in West Maui, the answer is clear: visitors are encouraged, not as spectators, but as travelers who love the place and want to see it thrive again.
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