Sole Searching In San Francisco
How to enjoy the City by the Bay without a car
By Natalie Compagno and Greg Freitas July 7, 2025
This article originally appeared in the May/June 2025 issue of Seattle magazine.
The streets of San Francisco might not have Karl Malden and Michael Douglas solving crimes these days, but some visitors still consider the traffic a crime. Rideshare was invented here for a reason — but you don’t need to jump in a car to enjoy the iconic “City by the Bay” experience. If time is the ultimate travel luxury, then travel time on the streets of S.F. should be spent exploring, not looking for parking.
Flying in from Sea-Tac to San Francisco International Airport or Oakland International Airport is quick and easy. Then, just hop on BART to hurtle toward the city. As the train glides into Embarcadero Station, you emerge and the city’s dynamic pulse signals that the weekend has begun.
The Hyatt Regency San Francisco Embarcadero, conveniently perched above the light rail station, offers a striking welcome. Brutalist architecture has been trending lately, and the 1973 edifice is as imposing a version as you’ll find on the West Coast. Designed by John Portman, who also did the Westin Bonaventure in Los Angeles, the hotel is an architectural marvel. Step into its cavernous atrium, which holds the Guinness world record for largest hotel lobby in the world. The San Francisco Chronicle once called it “self-contained sci-fi,” and the term is apt — it feels like walking onto the set of Dune. The Modernist sculpture Eclipse, by Charles O. Perry, somehow isn’t dwarfed by the massive scale. The giant orb is so large that the hotel was actually built around it.
The building starred in several notable ‘70s movies, from High Anxiety to The Towering Inferno. The famous interior glass elevators are still there, seemingly an inspiration for The Matrix. So is the revolving penthouse restaurant, currently serving as the Regency Club Lounge. The plush rooms present panoramic views of the Bay, with peekaboo views of the classics: Coit Tower and Transamerica Pyramid, and the not-so-classic Salesforce Tower.
Befitting its Silicon Valley adjacent location, the gym is packed with business travelers and Peloton bikes. Or maybe it’s time for bicep curls at the bar. Enjoy bar bites and $10 glasses of wine for happy hour at the hotel’s Eclipse Kitchen & Bar, a study in polished comfort with epic interior views and elevated takes on California cuisine. Or opt for a quick caffeine jolt at The Market, the well-stocked lobby grab-and-go. Then it’s time to head out, as the city beckons.
Stroll along the Embarcadero, and soak in the salty air and steady rhythm of joggers and cyclists carving their way down the waterfront. Your destination is Perry’s on the Embarcadero, named for original owner Perry Butler. This outpost of the Union Street original is a Bay Area classic, where stiff drinks and friendly bartenders set the perfect tone. A well-made Negroni pairs nicely with the clatter of business deals wrapping up and travelers settling in, but don’t linger too long — dinner awaits.
With a prime perch on the Bay, Waterbar is a love letter to seafood, executed with precision and a touch of drama. The oysters are pristine, the Dungeness crab melts on the tongue, and the views of the twinkling Bay Bridge complete the sensory feast. Order a glass of bright Fiano from Sonoma and revel in the “Only in S.F.” dining experience.
To cap off the night, make your way to Hi Dive, an unpretentious waterfront dive with just the right amount of grit. The beer is cold the crowd local, and the view from the patio reminds you that San Francisco, despite its polish and evolution, still knows how to keep things delightfully low-key.
Morning calls for adventure, and the best way to see San Francisco without a car is on two wheels. Book an e-bike from Wheel Fun Rentals, then set off toward the Golden Gate Bridge, the city’s fog-kissed crown jewel. The incline up to the bridge is made effortless by your battery-powered steed, allowing you to focus on the sheer joy of the ride on the safe, separated bike path. Crossing the bridge is a pure dose of adrenaline to the heart — wind whipping past, thick, misty tendrils scaling the iconic span like a creature from the Farallon Islands to the west, then the exhilarating moment when the city recedes and Marin’s rolling hills come into view.
On the other side, Cavallo Point Lodge provides a worthy destination reward. Nestled in a historic former military base, this understated luxury resort is a haven of rustic elegance. The lodge’s restaurant offers a menu that champions Northern California’s bounty and local wines poured with casual confidence. Sit outside along the narrow patio to continue admiring the bridge you just scaled. If time allows, inquire about the guided Fort Baker history tour, guided by longtime bellman Britt. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the area’s military past, complete with tales of intrigue and hidden bunkers. Historic ghosts might even make an appearance.
If more fresh air is on the agenda, the ride into Sausalito is safe, easy, and thrilling. Hand off your bikes to the city bike valet, then browse the local boutiques with tourists weekending from the city. Gaze across the bay at Angel and Alcatraz islands, then pop into No Name Bar for a round with the local salty dogs.
The return ride into the city feels almost cinematic. The sun, now hovering above the horizon, illuminates the skyline as you retrace your route, coasting effortlessly downhill. Back at the Embarcadero, the day’s perfect finale is a well-earned meal at one of the Ferry Building’s esteemed restaurants. Whether you opt for Hog Island Oyster Co.’s fresh seafood, mission-style burritos from Señor Sisig, or an indulgent Niman Ranch and Cowgirl Creamery cheeseburger from James Beard American Classic winner Gott’s Roadside, the meal is a celebration of the region’s culinary prowess.
As the evening light dances on the Bay and another round arrives, it’s clear: San Francisco doesn’t just reward the car-free traveler — it practically insists on it.