Skip to content

15 Minutes with Shaker & Spear Executive Chef Carolynn Spence

Shaker & Spear executive chef talks pet peeves and her "Spence-centric" cuisine

By Jessica Yadegaran June 9, 2016

A woman in an apron standing in a restaurant.
A woman in an apron standing in a restaurant.

This article originally appeared in the July 2016 issue of Seattle magazine.

After a decade at Los Angeles’ famed Chateau Marmont hotel, Carolynn Spence packed up her three pixie-bob cats (a Washington breed) to lead the kitchen of the Palladian Hotel’s Shaker & Spear downtown, a position recently vacated by Tulio’s Walter Pisano. Here’s what makes her tick.

» Los Angeles to Seattle. Why? The geography, the feel of the city. My parents say it’s like Greenwich Village from the 1980s. The venues and coffee shops and artsy people. I just love it.

» Name drop. Any Marmont regulars make your palms sweaty?
Terence Stamp, the British actor who played General Zod in the original Superman. He had this booming, theatrical voice and loved to talk about food. He was so lovely and charming.

» What Seattleite would you most like to cook for, and why?
A rock ’n’ roller. Mark Arm from Mudhoney or members of The Sonics. I just love the access to music here. Los Angeles has a music scene, too, but Seattle is more rock ’n’ roll to me.


Spence’s culinary tattoos include a riff on “speak/hear/see no evil” with a celery, carrot and onion. PHOTO CREDIT: Logan Smith

» Where can we find you when you’re not in the kitchen?
Taylor Shellfish. Din Tai Fung for pork dumplings. I love dive-y big breakfasts at Hattie’s Hat, The 5 Point Cafe and Easy Street Records café.

 

thaifusions: Ryan Dunn Photography 2016; spence headshot: 
Charity Burggraaf; inset: logan smit

» So, how would you describe your cuisine in one line?
Spence-centric. I don’t do fusion. I just try to keep it European and American and have fun with the ingredients, and let the customer drive me, too.

» Any pet peeves yet?
Yes. The dives are fun, but the fine dining restaurants are too serious. There’s no joy, and I’m hoping to change that. Dining is a celebration. I want to make out with whoever I dine with. Why is everyone so serious here? We have an open kitchen, so that helps, but when I started, the whole staff was so serious. I was like, “Calm down. Tell a joke. Relax. Give the people sitting here some food and shoot the sh*t with them.”

Follow Us

Restaurant Roundup: Holiday Cheer at SLU BRU, StarChefs, and Kabul Closing

Restaurant Roundup: Holiday Cheer at SLU BRU, StarChefs, and Kabul Closing

Here’s what was served up recently in the Emerald City.

Fusion food has an innate ability to bring us together. In the blending of two (or sometimes more) cultures, new perspectives are unlocked and we are all better for it. Esquire is in agreement, as the magazine has selected Lupe’s Situ Tacos, a Mexican-Lebanese taqueria in Ballard, as one of the 33 best new restaurants…

Counter Culture: Sansonina Ristorante Italiano

Counter Culture: Sansonina Ristorante Italiano

An Italian escape hiding in Renton.

Tucked just off Rainier Avenue, across from a Safeway, Sansonina Ristorante Italiano—which opened early in 2019—is the kind of place you drive past for years without noticing until you walk through the door. Once inside, the outside world dissolves, the hum of traffic fades, and suddenly you’re not in Renton anymore. You’re in a dimly…

5 Things to Eat in December

5 Things to Eat in December

This month’s assignment: Take the pressure off. 

There’s something about the end of the year that adds pressure to everything we do. Despite all the talk of holiday cheer and “merry and bright,” heightened expectations can bring a sense of weariness. We’re fretting over feasts and gatherings while working fervently to tie up loose ends—gifts, work, everything—with a pretty bow. Each month,…

Ahead of the Cut

Ahead of the Cut

How a tech-minded home cook turned years of tinkering into a chef’s knife powered by 40,000 vibrations per second.

Scott Heimendinger traces his love for knives back to college, when his dad taught him how to cook over the phone. By his junior year he had saved for his first real knife, a JA Henckels Santoku. Compared with the $9 IKEA knife he had been using, “it felt like a laser… things that used…