This article appears in print in the October 2019 issue. Click here to subscribe.

Editor’s note: This establishment closed on October 6, 2019.

Years ago, on a whirlwind trip to chicago that involved a punishing quantity of dining R&D, I fell in love with the jibarito: a Puerto Rican sandwich that uses smashed, fried plantains in place of a bun. My delight was rekindled in June at Addo:206 (Interbay), a casual new Puerto Rican–inspired restaurant from chef Eric Rivera, located in the back kitchen of Batch 206 Distillery. (Rivera’s original restaurant, Addo, is a restaurant-incubator spot and occasional fine dining destination in Ballard.) Rivera says he had to put the jibarito ($15) on the menu, as much for his Puerto Rican roots as for his time spent working in Chicago. To eat this, you’ll want to roll up your sleeves: Although the plantains are sturdier than most buns, they can barely contain the pile of juicy, tender pork, lettuce, tomato and garlicky secret sauce. It’s a sandwich suited to accompany drinking—starchy and hearty, best eaten in a dark corner.