There is a point, when I’m traveling along Interstate 82 (I-82), somewhere around Exit 26, when I usually notice a shift in the light—especially in the wintertime. Coming out from the pass and heading south to leave the flat, cloud-shrouded gray of Western Washington behind, I feel a burst of happiness at the blue skies and clear, bright light. Such was the case in November, when my fiancé and I made a weekend jaunt to the Tri-Cities for a few days of nice weather and, of course, wine tasting. We’re big fans of wine from the Red Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA), which happens to sit adjacent to Tri-Cities.

At three and a half hours from Seattle, the Tri-Cities—Kennewick, Pasco, and Richland—is a friendly, community- forward area where everyone is greeted with an honest smile. Not that we don’t have that in Seattle, but it felt different in the Tri-Cities: everyone from our coffee shop barista to the grocery store clerk was in a great mood. Maybe it was the sunshine, or the slower pace and bright weather, but people there were just cheerful.

“When I first moved here, I instantly felt the hospitality,” says Jasmin Gervin of Visit Tri-Cities, who met us for lunch on the day we arrived in town. “People were welcoming, down-to-earth, and genuinely interested in getting to  know me. I made friends quickly, which isn’t always easy when you relocate. That friendliness is honestly one of the things that makes the Tri-Cities so special.”

Although wine tasting is the region’s most-known draw, there are plenty of non-drinking activities on offer, from paddleboarding on one of the three local rivers (the Columbia, Yakima, and Snake) to hiking and historic and STEM-related attractions. Gervin notes that this rich mix is usually a surprise for first-time visitors—and often part of what keeps them coming back.

“You’ve got miles of riverfront trails, open spaces, and approachable hikes,” she says, “but you also have a strong science and history story, a thriving food and wine scene, and a steady rhythm of events that brings people together. It’s relaxed, it’s friendly, and it’s the kind of place that invites you to slow down a bit, explore, and discover something new around every corner.”

Stay a while

We spent most of our weekend in and around Richland, which was a great base overlooking the Columbia River. Our home-away-from-home was the Lodge at Columbia Point, which boasts river-facing rooms with fireplaces, balconies, and a modern lodge aesthetic.

Riverside respite. The Lodge at Columbia Point has tranquil waterfront views; its restaurant, Drumheller’s Food and Drink, serves up seasonal, locally sourced fare.

Photos COURTESY OF THE LODGE AT COLUMBIA POINT

Dinner on our first night was at the hotel’s restaurant, Drumheller’s Food and Drink, which features a regionally  inspired menu with produce, protein, and seafood sourced from Pacific Northwest suppliers, including Bautista Farms, Pure Country Farms, Columbia Basin Shroomery, Hermiston Melon Company, and Tonnemaker Farms. One highlight from the meal was a deconstructed clam chowder. The generous portion of small shell-on clams arrived in a spicy, broth-based bath alongside potato cubes and finished with a healthy sprinkle of fresh herbs. While menu offerings rotate by season and availability, the same approach—highlighting the integrity of the food and its purveyors—is at the heart of every dish.

Elsewhere in the hotel, the Columbia Point Spa books itself as “a sanctuary for the senses.” The perfect post-hike (or wine tasting) option, the spa offers a full menu of services that promote relaxation and holistic well-being. Here, you’re spoiled for choice, with a long list of stress-melting massage options (hot stone, Himalayan salt, deep tissue, CBD), facials, cupping, and scrubs. I experienced the seasonal vanilla chai massage, which left me feeling looser, tranquil, and, if I’m honest, craving a vanilla cupcake. After the treatment, I met my fiancé in the hot tub, where we enjoyed a glass of wine and a candy-colored sunset backdrop to the river views.

Sip and savor

For oenophiles, no trip to the Tri-Cities would be complete without visiting the wineries. As I mentioned, my fiancé and I love wine from the Red Mountain area; he prefers a bold Cabernet, while I gravitate toward a savory, peppery Syrah. According to Visit Tri-Cities, there are more than 200 wineries within a 50-mile radius, so it’s smart to plan ahead (some wineries require reservations, especially during the spring and summer months). On Friday, we were scheduled for a midday tasting at Upchurch Vineyard in Benton City, but arrived in town a little early, so we decided to swing by Terra Blanca for a quick glass. It was November, so the landscaping wasn’t quite as lush and green as it could be, but the property’s Tuscan-inspired estate, sitting on the southwest slope of Red Mountain, provides unparalleled views that prove popular as a backdrop for weddings.

At Upchurch, we stumbled upon a wine club release party and had the opportunity to taste a flight: reds, whites, and even a rosé. Owner Chris Upchurch (a founding winemaker and partner of DeLille Cellars) launched his namesake label in 2007, but he has been making Bordeaux-style wines in the region for more than 30 years. Full-bodied, often with notes of dark fruit and spices, the wines are offered in Upchurch’s region-inspired tasting room—a modern farmhouse with panoramic vineyard views.

On Saturday, we continued our wine odyssey, spirited along by David McClain, owner of TC Black, a transportation company with a fleet of high-end luxury vehicles and experienced drivers, to safely transport you between wineries. Our first stop was Col Solare—its gorgeous tasting room blends a warm, Italian spirit with modern architecture in an elevated setting that enhances the wine-sampling experience. Aside from sipping wine (the label delivers a remarkable Tuscan-style pour, with flavors influenced by the distinct Red Mountain terroir), guests can schedule vineyard tours, which are best taken in the spring and summer months, when the vines are out in full force.

Our “new discovery” on this trip was Frichette, a husband-and-wife-owned winery in Benton City. We spent the afternoon with Shae Frichette, who is funny, welcoming, and incredibly knowledgeable, not just about the winemaking process, but about the history and geography of the region, and its impact on the final product. Frichette offers walk-in tasting (signature flights, winemaker select flights, and mystery flights), as well as a two-hour private concierge tasting and tour experience. Take home a bottle or two of the estate-grown Persistent—it’s an impressive addition to any dinner party.

Explore through eating

For bites, we experienced a range of options, from the riverfront LU LU Craft Bar + Kitchen in Richland (the grilled pimento cheese and tomato soup was a comforting standout, and you can never go wrong with beer-battered fish and chips), to an old-fashioned egg-forward breakfast at the family-run Sterling’s Famous Steak Seafood & Salad Bar. At Dovetail Joint, the impressively inventive menu features flavors from Lebanon, Italy, and Latin America. The mezze platter is a solid starter for a group (I ordered it for lunch), with a choice of homemade spreads, falafel or lamb, and pillowy brick-oven-baked pita. It also has pizzas, tacos, and select pastas. Another great brunch stop is Endive Eatery. As we went to press, the restaurant was in the process of moving locations and “reconceptualizing slightly,” but on our visit to the cozy café, it offered a healthy range of items, including many vegan and vegetarian options like tofu scrambles, breakfast burritos, and quiche.

Wine and dine. Clockwise, from top: Frichette Winery is known for its events highlighting foo and art; Endive Eatery is a cozy brunch option; breakfast at Sterling’s is legendary.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF FRICHETTE RED MOUNTAIN; COURTESY OF ENDIVE EATERY; COURTESY OF STERLING’S FAMOUS STEAK SEAFOOD & SALAD BAR

One evening, we checked out At Michele’s, which is both a restaurant and event space. The night we went, a local band, Nuketown, was playing, and we enjoyed dinner (crab cakes for me, steak frites for the fiancé) and a show. At Michele’s has a rotating seasonal menu, as well as an “always available” menu offering classic items such as burgers, sliders, and steak.

Bonus: On the way back west, stop at Los Hernández Tamales in Union Gap. In 2018, the restaurant won a James Beard America’s Classics Award. You can grab a plate for lunch, but we always bring a cooler and stock up on the multi-pack frozen version—the jalapeño pepperjack ones are absolutely A+ eating.

Get outside

Aside from wine tasting, the Tri-Cities boasts a plethora of activity options, especially for those who want to get moving and enjoy the outdoors. If you’re feeling a slower pace, choose a walk along Richland’s scenic, seven-mile Riverfront Trail, or, for more of an adventure, the Candy Mountain Trail is a 3.5-mile out-and-back hike that finishes with 360-degree views of the Tri-Cities, surrounding vineyards, and, on clear days, the peaks of three mountains, including Rainier. “When the weather warms up, getting on the water is part of daily life for locals,” says Gervin, noting that paddleboarding and boat rides are popular options. “The Columbia River stays calm enough for paddling almost year-round. And with farmers markets, Tri-City Americans hockey games, art festivals, and outdoor concerts filling the calendar, the region offers a surprisingly wide mix of experiences for all ages.”