Chef Rachel Yang Cooks with Persimmons
Joule’s Rachel Yang makes the most of this versatile, seasonal Asian fruit
By Seattle Mag November 12, 2013
This article originally appeared in the December 2013 issue of Seattle magazine.
While Rachel Yang was growing up in Korea, her family ended meals with sujeonggwa, a dried persimmon tea. “I can still remember the sweet and spicy aroma that would fill up the kitchen whenever my grandma would make the tea,” says the co-owner/chef of a Joule and Revel, who celebrates the fall and winter appearance of fresh persimmons in markets by featuring them in various dishes. “It was served cold with a garnish of a few pine nuts (for flavor, as well as to keep you from gulping it). There aren’t many traditional sweets in Korea, so this sweet and spicy tea was a real treat!”
Persimmons are beautiful yet baffling to many home cooks. The bright orange fall fruit resembles a tomato, although that’s where the similarity ends. Mature persimmons can be candy sweet, depending on the variety. emLeft: Joule’s persimmon salad with sesame, sumac and basil gremolata. The heart-shaped Hachiya variety is best when it’s soft, while the flat-topped Fuyu is better when it’s firm. Originally native to Asia, this versatile tree fruit is grown all over the world in warmer climes and plays an important supporting role in many dishes. Yang showcases the juicy gems at Joule’s brunch in a salad seasoned with sesame, sumac and basil gremolata.
Where she buys them: Persimmons are available from fall until midwinter at most Asian markets. They typically sell for around $1 to $2 a pound. Yang looks for fruit that’s bright orange and soft to touch.
How she uses them: The flesh of softened Hachiya persimmons can be blended into vinaigrettes or ice cream, or used as a foundation for chilled soup, while the Fuyu shines when sliced into salads or made into pickles. Both varieties can also be baked into cakes and cookies. They’re the star of a steamed pudding that’s a stalwart on many Midwest holiday menus.
Where you can find them: Most supermarket produce departments carry persimmons. Yang recommends Uwajimaya Asian market (locations in Chinatown–International District, Bellevue and Renton). If the Hachiya variety feels firm, ripen the fruit at home in a brown paper bag with an apple.
Get Yang’s recipe for Quick Pickled Persimmons here.
Follow Us
Palace Kitchen Celebrates 30 Years
The Belltown staple still feeds the city after 10 p.m.
After the last tickets come off the rail, floor mats are hauled out to be hosed down, oven hoods are scrubbed, aprons come untied, and someone counts the drawer. It’s a familiar ritual in restaurant cities everywhere. When the shift ends, cooks and servers go looking for a drink and something to eat. For three…
Protein Without the Pressure
In her new cookbook, Seattle author and dietitian Rachael DeVaux keeps healthy eating grounded in real life.
Rachael DeVaux is not afraid of beef. That might sound obvious, but in a wellness culture still haunted by plain chicken breast and low-fat everything, her enthusiasm for grass-fed ground beef feels almost radical. The Seattle-based New York Times bestselling author, personal trainer, and founder of Rachael’s Good Eats has built a following of more than 3.5…
Restaurant Roundup: Nordic Cuisine and a Brazilian Brick-and-Mortar
Here’s what was served up recently in the Emerald City.
Monday nights are worth celebrating—you made it through the first day of the week, so why not treat yourself to a delicious meal? Unfortunately, but understandably, plenty of restaurants are closed. But at these spots, not only are the kitchens still serving, the quality doesn’t drop off post-weekend, providing a perfect opportunity for a surprise…
Whisky in the Wild
Good spirits.
Over the summer, Westland Distillery announced a new offering, inspired by Washington State. Made in Seattle and taking cues from the Northwest outdoor lifestyle, Watchspot Whiskey blends eight-year-old Westland American Single Malt with grain whiskey from America’s heartland, resulting in a pour that has notes of toasted grain, milk chocolate, biscuit, apricot, and cherry pie….