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Restaurant Roundup: Bomb Banh Mis and Oktoberfest on the Water

Here’s what was served up recently in the Emerald City.

Four adults sit at an outdoor table with drinks and food trays, wearing hats and sunglasses, during a festival with other people in the background.
Say prost to a weekend of pretzels and polka at the Des Moines Marina Oktoberfest.
Courtesy of Explore Seattle Southside

Knowing where to take out-of-town guests is an art form. You know the dance. How do you show Seattle off just enough that it still comes off classy? Give them a taste of what they’re missing and send them home with a pair of emerald-tinted glasses. “The Nosh with Rachel Belle” has some ideas, like a visit to Azuki Handmade Noodles or devouring the hefty, hand-sized onion rings at Proper Fish. Just make sure to leave room for the New Zealand-style ice cream at Many Bennies. 

Now, let’s move from one mini food tour to the next. 

Entrepreneurship in the soul

The story behind Island Soul in Columbia City is one that runs all the way back to owner Theo Martin’s childhood, when he watched his parents take on each day of work with unwavering professionalism and determination. Now, by emulating their example, Martin and his partners, Richard Dwyer and Chef Bobby Laing, put smiles on people’s faces with their Southern and Caribbean fusion cuisine, and over plates of catfish, gumbo, oxtail, and Cajun jambalaya, a community has formed thanks to that warm, welcoming atmosphere.

Small business stays afloat

Portage Bay Cafe’s co-owner Fair Gunnar says the local brunch chain has no intention of closing its doors, but that doesn’t change the fact that the business is in rough financial waters. Unpaid rent and a pile of back taxes upped the pressure amid rising labor costs. Still, Gunnar credits regulars with keeping her optimistic and the five restaurants cooking. 

Gameday grub

Seahawks wide receiver Jaxon Smith-Njigba is used to headlining NFL Sundays, but this season, he’s also the face of new food offerings at Lumen Field. Dubbed the JSN Menu, the collab brings the athlete’s initials to the field of plate. Fans can dig into Jerk Salmon Nachos, Jicama Steak Noodles, and warm artisan bread with a trio of spreads (jalapeño jam, smoked salmon spread, and nectarine butter). Catch the cravings in Sections 114, 132, 230, 311, and 336 at the home opener on… checks notes… Wednesday, Sept. 9?

Your friendly neighborhood restaurant

You know the kind—a place that picks you up with a wholesome meal when you need it most. That’s what you get at Cafe Lolo, which stands out in Capitol Hill’s Summit area for its use of fresh ingredients on a menu that’s dynamic with the seasons. Eater’s Kat Thompson suggests you can’t go wrong with an order of sourdough focaccia and the smoked salmon rillettes (if they’re available), and any pasta made with locally milled grains has our attention.  

Be mine, Bé Mi

You, too, will want to whisper sweet nothings to this Vietnamese sandwich bar that opened over the summer in Pioneer Square. In fact, you might get love bombed yourself, as the shop certainly takes a maximalist approach when it comes to bánh mì—you’ll find everything from pork belly and beef to fried fish and tofu and mushroom, plus toppings like chili jam and pickled papaya that take everything to the next level. 

Steins on the Sound

Throw your lederhosen and boat shoes on and get ready for suds at sea. The Des Moines Marina Oktoberfest (Sept. 18-20) is a weekend of local brews, bands, and German-inspired, family-friendly fun that kicks off with the OktoberCrawl on Friday and culminates with a pair of Oktoberfest Brews Cruises (departures at 2 and 4 p.m.). On board, you’ll take in views of the South Sound, dining on sausages and apple strudel, and of course, imbibing a beer or two. Adult tickets are $25.

About Restaurant Roundup

Restaurant Roundup is Seattle magazine’s weekly look at what’s new, notable, and worth eating and drinking around the city—from restaurant openings and closings to pop-ups, events, and the occasional very good burger.

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