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Restaurant Roundup: Death & Co. and Japanese-Italian Fusion

Here’s what was served up recently in the Emerald City.

Dimly lit bar with a marble counter, barstools, fruit display, shelves of liquor bottles, and black leather booths along the wall. Candles provide soft lighting throughout the space.
Death & Co.’s original East Village digs, where the cocktails have been flowing since 2007. Seattle gets its turn when the bar lands in Pioneer Square this September.
Courtesy of Death & Co.

In the aftermath of the violence at Bite of Seattle, the city’s other food festivals are in unfamiliar territory.

Organizers of the upcoming Panda Fest Seattle want to highlight a few features that may help alleviate concerns about the event’s safety. Tickets are required to gain entrance to Fisher Pavilion at Seattle Center, and as such, there will be designated security screenings with metal detectors, bag checks, and handheld security wands. More than 50% of the vendors at this celebration of Asian cuisines and culture are local businesses who depend on the 25,000+ attendees’ patronage—so if you’re ready, they need your support.

Here are some other ways to keep the food scene fresh.

This weekend’s plans are sorted

More imminent on the festival front (like Aug. 15) is CHOMP!, King County’s celebration of local food and sustainable living. Held in Marymoor Park, the free event will have hot food and a beer garden, with booths from farms, chefs, and restaurants that are all doing their part to support the local food economy. Perhaps more exciting is the entertainment—there will be live music courtesy of Cat Power, Whitney, Lady A, and Marshall Law Band, with an appearance from Daniel Tiger for the kiddos.

Between two buns

What do you look for in a burger? Are you a purist—where lettuce, tomato, beef patty, and cheese on sesame seed rolls suit you fine—or do you lean outside the foil wrapper, so to speak? No matter your quarter-pounder proclivities, there’s something out there for you in Seattle’s rich burger landscape, like Familyfriend’s Kewpie smash burger that’s dripping in umami, or the caramelized onion and mimolette fondue-drizzled Le Coin burger. We’ll let you decide which one to call the best.

Introducing… Itameshi

If you haven’t had the pleasure of trying it, the Japanese-Italian fusion food served at the new Sake Noire is a huge hit. Plan a night out to South Seattle to enjoy dishes such as Pizza Dust Edamame and a lasagna made with shiitake pork bolognese, dashi bechamel, and bonito flake. The drinks list is even more enticing, with a rotating sake menu that both informs and inebriates. Other options include crossover cocktails (Soba Manhattan, anyone?) as well as regional tastes of shochu and awamori.

Seafood that makes a splash

Fans of rising chef Ash Stockham will have to hold their breath until November to experience Pearl Diver, their first solo project, which is set to open in Capitol Hill. With a resume that includes stints at several James Beard-nominated and award-winning restaurants, such as The Whale Wins and Tomo, Stockham will debut a “Parisian-inspired bistro” that emphasizes seafood prepared with French flair.

Pioneer Square giveth and taketh away

There has been a fair amount of turnover in the neighborhood over the last few months with the loss of some longtime standbys and heavy hitters like Collins Pub and 84 Yesler (its final day of service is Aug. 15). However, there’s been an influx of new flavors, too: Doris, the slim and elegant spot for drinks and small bites, Louie’s Deli and its sandwiches you’re sure to like, and the much-anticipated Death & Co. outpost that arrives in September. Elsewhere in the city, there have been other losses to take note of, especially so they don’t hit at the worst time (you know, when you’re looking for reservations).

About Restaurant Roundup

Restaurant Roundup is Seattle magazine’s weekly look at what’s new, notable, and worth eating and drinking around the city—from restaurant openings and closings to pop-ups, events, and the occasional very good burger.

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