There are people so crazy and determined to surf, they’ll go to great lengths to do it.

No matter the time of year or how cold it gets, surfers can be found anywhere there’s a wave. From surfing on rivers to tidal bore waves, wave pools, and even behind wakes created by tanker ships, surfers tend to be single-minded when it comes to their passion. So it’s no surprise there’s a thriving community of surfers seeking wave riding on the northern coast of Washington, along the Strait of Juan de Fuca.

There are many variables when it comes to riding waves in this part of the state. First, the best time of year for consistent waves is the winter, which means the water is really cold. Having the right gear is essential; otherwise, you will freeze. A thick wetsuit with a hood, a pair of rubber booties, and gloves are a must. Luckily, in addition to the many surf shops in the Seattle area, there are several on the Olympic Peninsula, such as North by Northwest Surf Co. and Evergreen Surf Shop in Port Angeles. You can buy gear and rent boards at both locales and get good advice on where to find the best waves on any given day.

Finding good waves—or any wave at all—is the next hurdle to surfing the Strait. The west coast of Washington, where open ocean brings large swells to break on its shores, consistently delivers rideable waves. Places like Westport, Ocean Shores, and La Push are predictable spots to surf, whereas the Strait is very reliant on where the swell and the wind are coming from. This means that some days can be “pumping,” while others will be completely flat. Given that the Strait is relatively narrow compared to the open ocean, it’s often hard for the right conditions to line up.

In order to surf the Strait, you almost need to be an amateur weather forecaster, and you likely must live on the Olympic Peninsula or Whidbey Island to make it worthwhile. Many locals will check specific surf spots multiple times a day to see if they’re rideable, and conditions can change almost instantaneously. This February, I spent a month living in Port Townsend with my surfboard at the ready. There’s a place near the lighthouse at Fort Worden State Park that is a well-known local spot for surfing. Out of twenty-eight days that month, only one day was surfable, and it lasted about two hours. But oh, what a glorious two hours it was!

I went out to the point, hesitant yet pumping with adrenaline, riding a short, left-rolling wave, trying to stay out of the locals’ ways while trying to get mine. Here, the vibes in the water were friendly, but sometimes the problem with surfing the Strait (or, unfortunately, surfing in general) is that out-of-towners are not always welcome in the waters. Given that conditions don’t often line up, and that good waves are in short supply, many surfers don’t want a big crowd, especially at lesser-known spots. I find it unfortunate—and a bit ironic—that surfing, despite its portrayal of good vibes and aloha culture, is often very cutthroat and territorial. This can be true for surfing the Strait of Juan de Fuca. However, more often than not, if you’re friendly, not dangerous, and don’t try to steal waves, you’ll fit right in. 

So where to go? The beauty of the Strait is that, depending on the day, you can find spots all over—from Port Townsend to Port Angeles and all the way to the most northern part of the Olympic Peninsula. Some of the more well-known, consistently rideable spots are Neah Bay, Crescent Beach, and the mouth of the Elwha River. Even Fort Ebey State Park on Whidbey Island holds great surf when the timing is right. 

The key to surfing the Strait of Juan de Fuca is patience and time, and the reward can be massive. There is almost never a crowd, the scenery is guaranteed to be epic, and the waves can be downright spectacular. From perfect tubes to little peelers to glassy longboarding waves, the Strait has a bit of everything for surfers. Every time I’m out on the Olympic Peninsula, I see surfboards strapped to vehicles, and notice motivated riders getting out of their rigs to check the surf or take a seemingly random turn down a road leading to the shore. My heart sings at the possibilities of what they may find, and I’m jealous if I don’t have my board with me—because surfing the Strait is special. It’s such an unlikely yet brilliant place for riding waves, and I can’t get enough of it.