Counter Culture

We celebrate the unsung heroes of dining: the hole-in-the-wall, the mom and pops, the no-frills restaurants that may not attract food critics but serve unforgettable, delicious, comfort food. These gems deliver where it counts: flavor.

A person with glasses is eating a large sandwich while wearing a blue checkered shirt and a wristwatch, set against a green radial background.
Counter Culture: Sansonina Ristorante Italiano

Counter Culture: Sansonina Ristorante Italiano

An Italian escape hiding in Renton.

Tucked just off Rainier Avenue, across from a Safeway, Sansonina Ristorante Italiano—which opened early in 2019—is the kind of place you drive past for years without noticing until you walk through the door. Once inside, the outside world dissolves, the hum of traffic fades, and suddenly you’re not in Renton anymore. You’re in a dimly…

Counter Culture: Sourdough Willy’s

Counter Culture: Sourdough Willy’s

This Kingston pizzeria with a 129-year-old sourdough starter has earned a spot on the world stage.

Sourdough Willy’s in Kingston isn’t just a great local pizza joint anymore—it’s officially home to one of the best pizzas on the planet. Seattle magazine first highlighted this unassuming spot last year as our editorial pick for Best Pizza in the region. Now, chef and owner Will Grant, who opened Sourdough Willy’s in 2020 and…

Counter Culture: Emerald City Fish & Chips

Counter Culture: Emerald City Fish & Chips

Gumbo and a spicy tartar sauce might just upend your entire belief system

On the outskirts of Columbia City, Emerald City Fish & Chips is frying like it means it. I judge every restaurant’s fish and chips by the quality of the cod and the tartar sauce. The Alaskan cod arrives in a Southern-style jacket that crackles at first bite before giving way to moist, flaky glory—glory that’s…

Counter Culture: Brileys BBQ

Counter Culture: Brileys BBQ

The best ribs in town? You'll have to go to Lake Forest Park.

Seattle might not be the first city you think of when it comes to barbecue — but head north to Brileys BBQ and you’ll see why that narrative is changing, one rack at a time. I’m calling it now: these are the best ribs in town. Tender, smoky, and perfectly caramelized, the ribs scream Southern…

Counter Culture: Burien Fish House

Counter Culture: Burien Fish House

Don’t be deceived by this restaurant’s humble appearance

Nestled in a small strip mall in an industrial corner of Burien, the Burien Fish House may not look like much from the outside, but don’t let its unassuming location fool you. This restaurant serves all the classic fish house fare — fish and chips, clam chowder, calamari, and one of the best places in…

Counter Culture: Time Out Greek & American Restaurant

Counter Culture: Time Out Greek & American Restaurant

Cozy Mountlake Terrace gem delivers every time

Time Out Greek & American Restaurant, a hidden gem in Mountlake Terrace, has been serving up delicious comfort food since 2004. Founded by Emmanuel and Georgia Flemetakis, this family-owned restaurant is now run by the next generation of the Flemetakis family. The menu is packed with classic Greek comfort food, offering everything from gyros and…

About

Brandon Ferguson is a CFO by trade but a foodie at heart. He has a passion for small, humble restaurants that rarely make it onto the radar of mainstream food critics or glossy dining guides. Join him as he discovers warmth, tradition, and authenticity along with great food.

A person with glasses is eating a large sandwich while wearing a blue checkered shirt and a wristwatch, set against a green radial background.

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