Counter Culture: Emerald City Fish & Chips
Gumbo and a spicy tartar sauce might just upend your entire belief system
By Brandon Ferguson August 19, 2025
On the outskirts of Columbia City, Emerald City Fish & Chips is frying like it means it.
I judge every restaurant’s fish and chips by the quality of the cod and the tartar sauce. The Alaskan cod arrives in a Southern-style jacket that crackles at first bite before giving way to moist, flaky glory—glory that’s fried and seasoned.
Now, tartar sauce is where I usually draw the line. I’m a classic, white-and-dill purist. Most “creative” versions taste like disappointment. But Emerald City Fish & Chips, which Stevie Allen opened in 2009 using his grandmother’s Southern recipes with a Northwest twist, sneaks in just the right amount of spicy heat to improve on tradition. I’ve had to reconsider many of my long-held food beliefs after becoming a fan of this spicy tartar sauce.
And yet the headliner here isn’t the fish—it’s the seafood gumbo. It’s house-made, bayou-style, brimming with shrimp, a deep roux, and andouille, ladled over just-barely-al-dente rice that holds its nerve in the bowl. It’s only available Sunday through Tuesday and sells out—so go early. This is the kind of bowl that makes a drive down Rainier Avenue feel like a pilgrimage.
Go for the cod, convert over the tartar sauce, and stay loyal for that gumbo. Emerald City Fish & Chips isn’t just doing fried fish. It’s running a small, well-seasoned rebellion.
About Counter Culture
Brandon Ferguson is a CFO by trade but a foodie at heart. He has a passion for small, humble restaurants that rarely make it onto the radar of mainstream food critics or glossy dining guides. Join him as he discovers warmth, tradition, and authenticity along with great food.
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