Skip to content

Backstory: How a 1950s Seattle Ice Cream Shop Became a Boat-shaped Pho Institution

Seattle's love affair with pho started at this iconic spot

By Ariel Shearer November 6, 2019

_JC_6404

This article originally appeared in the November 2019 issue of Seattle magazine.

This article appears in print in the November 2019 issue. Click here to subscribe.

The landmark. Pho Bac Restaurant
The location. Chinatown–International District, 1314 S Jackson St.

The backstory. At the corner of what is perhaps Little Saigon’s busiest intersection, a boat-shaped building and yellow faux palm tree mark the birthplace of Seattle’s love affair with pho. But before the iconic restaurant that most now know as Pho Bac helped launch our city’s obsession with Vietnamese noodle soup, it shifted shapes in a string of short-lived establishments.

Constructed in 1954 as an ice cream shop, the small, triangular building later served a brief stint as a real estate office and then cycled through several restaurants during the ’70s. It took on new life in the early ’80s when Theresa Cat Vu and Augustine Nien Pham bought the building and opened Pho Bac, solidifying its sea vessel silhouette in the late 2000s when part of a parade float was repurposed as the restaurant’s boat bow.

Now, after months of renovations to update the space, the building has been reinvented once again—this time with an open kitchen—yet it retains the same cozy diner vibe and short menu loyal fans will recognize from the original restaurant. A few relics from the past—the original sandwich board and wood wall paneling, for instance—remain, a testament to the restaurant’s staying power.

“It’s such an institution,” says Yenvy Pham, who, along with her siblings, operates the Pho Bac restaurants around the city, now that their parents have retired. “Seattle needs that.”

Love our Backstory feature? Read up on others here.

Follow Us

Where to Get Vietnamese Coffee in Seattle

Where to Get Vietnamese Coffee in Seattle

Eight spots we love across the city.

Vietnamese coffee has long been part of Seattle’s Vietnamese restaurant scene, and a new wave of cafés is now building on that foundation with fresh takes and flavors. Here are eight places to try. 1. Aroom Coffee Aroom Coffee serves classic Vietnamese coffee drinks, including egg coffee, coconut coffee, and cà phê đen (traditional phin-brewed…

Industry Entrées

Industry Entrées

Seattle’s newest spots to eat, drink, and gather with friends.

Mr. Maqluba Greenwood | instagram.com/mr.maqluba/ Since opening in the former Olive and Grape space in January, Mr. Maqluba has been bringing some delicious hope to Seattle’s formerly Palestinian-food-free landscape. The restaurant’s “authentic maqluba, made the traditional way,” according to its social media, is a heavenly pot of seasoned rice that’s loaded with roasted chicken, crisped…

Industry Entrées

Industry Entrées

Seattle’s newest spots to eat, drink, and gather with friends.

Gao Lhao Bangkok Noodle Shop Green Lake Gao Lhao is bringing Bangkok’s colorful Chinatown scene to Green Lake, channeling the vibrancy of the Yaowarat district via neon-lit murals, street vendor motifs, playful cocktails, and flashy Thai-Chinese fare. The dynamic menu showcases the best of the fusion genre: chewy wok-charred noodles with scrambled egg and shiitakes,…

Industry Entrées

Industry Entrées

Seattle’s newest spots to eat, drink, and gather with friends.

Over the last few months, the dining scene has been busy. A longtime winery finally lands in the city, a beloved Eastlake spot comes back to life, and new sandwich shops, bakeries, and comfort-food counters fill in neighborhood gaps. Here’s what’s new—and newly reopened—around town. Fortuna Bottega Phinney Ridge Phinneywood—the borderlands between Phinney Ridge and…