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Restaurant Roundup: Benihana’s Back and Fantastic Frites

Here’s what was served up recently in the Emerald City.

Two people clink cocktails over plates of assorted food, including stir-fried vegetables, shrimp, and Fantastic Frites, on a dark table at Benihana.
Benihana is returning to Seattle with a new location at Lake Union Piers.
Courtesy of Benihana

One of these days we will write about the glory of Seattle’s James Beard Award winners… but alas, today is not that day. The city struck out yet again at the Oscars of the culinary world, which isn’t exactly a shock, considering there were only two local finalists in Johnny Courtney of Atoma and Aaron Tekulve of Surrell. Still, the disappointment extends the unwanted streak to seven years, with the last winner being Brady Ishiwata Williams in 2019 (then of Canlis, now at Tomo).

We’re going to need a pick-me-up.

Asada sounds good

Grilled beef will definitely lift the spirits, and thankfully there are three Mexican restaurants that have opened recently that excel in preparing mouthwatering carne asada. At Sonora Carne Asada House in Hillman City, you can throw the meat on tacos or nachos, in a burrito or torta; Pioneer Square’s Gordo Steak offers a traditional steakhouse vibe with a range of cuts, plus a scintillating plate of campechanos prepared with chorizo and cheese; and Tacos Cometa offers standout Sinaloa-style vampiros.

It’s Beni a while

For the first time in ten years, Benihana will return to Seattle, taking over an almost 9,000-square-foot space at the Lake Union Piers. The Japanese teppanyaki restaurant has yet to give an official opening date, but diners will once again be able to enjoy the chain’s theatrical preparation of Japanese cuisine on hibachi grills. Benihana’s downtown location rebranded in 2016 to Hamansu, which then closed three years later. 

Cringing for crumbs at the World Cup

Soccer fans that paid an arm and a leg to get into the matches at this summer’s global tournament are finding the concession prices in “Seattle Stadium” to be an added kick in the teeth. Soft pretzels and kettle corn will set you back more than $13, churros come in at $11, and a 16-ounce craft beer is nearly $19. Each venue’s owner is permitted to set their own prices, so we can’t blame FIFA for this one—you won’t want to hear about the discounts in Atlanta. Spoiler, food and drinks are a lot cheaper.

Frites finds

Frites are said to be a Belgian invention with a crispy, golden history. With the nation’s football team in town, Belgian American writer Margo Vansynghel went in search of Seattle’s best and true-to-tradition fries, with a little help from her own mother. The four she found have “a nice crunch, a pillowy interior and deep flavor without being overly salty,” which is pretty hard to argue against. Little Beast’s hand-cut potatoes take two dips in a tallow bath to get a nice crunch while still being supple. See the other picks here.

Two scoops for one

Portland-based ice cream shop Salt & Straw is celebrating the start of summer with its “Make It a Double” offer, where anyone can enjoy an extra scoop with any single cup or cone purchase on Sunday, June 21. That’s probably music to dad’s ears—treat him on Father’s Day with a visit to one of the nearby scoop shops in Capitol Hill, Queen Anne, Ballard or across from Pike Place Market.

Destination, dessert

Five local sweet shops have teamed up to provide a fun, globe-trotting experience that encourages you to eat sundaes inspired by countries participating in the World Cup. Now until June 30, diners can receive a passport with their first dessert purchase at one of Spice Waala, Milk Drunk, The Pastry Project, The Flora Bakehouse, and The Window; once you’ve filled out the punch card, it can be entered for a chance to win a grand prize of $125 in gift cards to the participating businesses, with five $25 gift cards also up for grabs.

So long, Sophon

A hefty tax bill—reportedly more than $160,000—is the reason for the James Beard semifinalist Cambodian restaurant’s closure, only a few years after it opened in Phinney Ridge. The news comes on the heels of a staff walkout in February, which owner Karuan Long attributed to “cash flow issues.”

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Restaurant Roundup: Bomb Banh Mis and Oktoberfest on the Water

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